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Constanta: Revisiting the museum,
climbing the tower and a reunion!
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At times during our 45 hour east-to-west voyage
across the centre of the Black Sea, we noticed that
several birds, of different breeds, were flying
around the ship and landing on the deck. We weren't
sure whether some of them had unwittingly hitched
a ride with us from Georgia and now had to wait
until we were within reach of dry land in Romania,
or whether they were simply long distance fliers
who had spotted the ship and were popping in for
an opportunistic morsel.
This little Robin was sitting on our balcony when
we were still more than 160 miles from the nearest
land. Was it our imagination or did he look exhausted,
balancing himself by resting his tail on the deck?
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Our expectations, for this section
of the itinerary, were low. Firstly, we weren't looking
forward to the long crossing of the Black Sea, because we
feared that it might be quite rough. Secondly, we had visited
the city of Constanta more than 11 years before, as part
of a river cruise from Vienna and we weren't too impressed
by the place then. Our misgivings were unfounded. The Black
Sea crossing was calm, sunny and very relaxing and we enjoyed
a lovely afternoon exploring the city of Constanta independently. |
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We arrived at the entrance to the port of Constanta at
around 11:00am, slightly earlier than scheduled and were joined
by the Romanian pilot.
From what we could see, the port was well protected from
the sea and it was quite a long way (4 or 5 kms perhaps) before
we actually got to our docking location, about an hour later. |
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It was lovely to see a very familiar
ship, the Island Sky, docked just across from where we were
about to dock. In 2011 we sailed around the Baltic on this
ship and we have another cruise already booked for July
2015! It got even better when Bruce discovered that the
cruise director from our earlier voyage was currently on
the ship. We decided that it might be nice to try and see
him... more later! |
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Once again, we decided to skip the
organised tour today. Although it included some sights in
the city centre that we wanted to return to, it also included
a trip out to the Murfatlar vineyard, with its folkloric
show and wine tasting, both of which we had experienced
in 2003 and had no desire to repeat! We had a quick bite
to eat and then set off on foot. The walk from the port
into town was slightly longer (and slightly duller) than
anticipated, but there were some interesting sights along
the way. Looking back, it was quite fun to get a photo of
our two favourite ships in one photo. |
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The local blood bank? |
"Welcome to Constanta" (at
the port entrance) |
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These map shows the area we were
about to explore. |
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Immediately, things began to look
familiar...
to see a photo we had taken at this spot 11 years previously. |
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Constanta's casino building is arguably
the city's most famous landmark. It is an imposing building,
built more than 130 years ago, but has definitely seen better
decades. One guide book says that it "watches the Black
Sea", which might possibly have been better translated
as "guards the Black Sea". Either way, it sounds
about right, because it does have a commanding position. |
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The Cathedral of Saint Peter and
Saint Paul |
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Ruins of the ancient city of Tomis,
adjacent to the cathedral. |
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The cathedral, built between 1883 and
1885, is situated in the historic area of the city, close
to the seafront boulevard and the casino. |
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Work on the original interior painting
of the church was started in 1888, three years after completion
of construction. The task was given to Demetrescu Mirea,
a famous painter of the time. Instead of traditional Byzantine
painting, Mirea preferred a more realistic style, assigning
the saints personalities and bearing the faces of people
from everyday life in Constanta. This triggered a scandal
and shocked the Orthodox Church. They refused to consecrate
the cathedral and requested emergency changes to the paintings.
After nearly a decade, during which time the church did
not function, the Ministry of Culture approved the consecration
of the shrine in 1895 with all of the existing paintings.
Sadly, none of the original paintings remain, because the
church was destroyed in the second world war and was rebuilt
in 1951 with quite a different artistic style. |
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St. Nicholas Bulgarian Basilica
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The Folk Art Museum was built in 1893
but has only been used as a museum since 1975. The guide book
states that as an institution, it "continues to be a
remarkable presence in a world where traditions, customs,
folklore and Romanian garb are threatened by excessive modernization
that swept the society". |
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The city centre was strangely quiet
and largely deserted. Perhaps this is normal for a Sunday
afternoon, because our recollection from our last visit
in 2003, was of a very busy city with cars everywhere! |
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Some parts of the city were looking
a little more upmarket than we remembered it, but this wasn't the
case everywhere. |
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The Greek Church "Metamorphosis" is a small
sanctuary located in the historic area of the city, close
to the modern beach. Building was completed in 1867 when
this region, Dobrogea, was part of the Ottoman Empire
and it became the first Christian place of worship in
Constanta. It was built with the consent of the Sultan
Mehmet Han Bin Abdul Aziz, who responded positively to
a request by the Greek community to build a place of worship
in the area, on condition that it should not be higher
than any mosque in the city and that it was built at a
distance from the Turkish district.
Until 1948, Greek priests officiated, but with the departure
of the last greek priest this task was taken over by Romanian
priests. In 1974, financial difficulties forced the Greek
committee, which managed the church, to transfer jurisdiction
to the Romanian Orthodox Church. Although it is no longer
a formal place of worship for Greeks, there is an annual
celebration, the feast of Saint Fanourios, on 27th August
for the city's ethnic Greeks. The building is now a historical
and cultural monument.
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The Greek Church "Metamorphosis". |
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Even the beach looked deserted,
despite the weather being fine. |
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Ovidiu Square. What an improvement
there had been since our last visit in 2003, when it was clogged
with traffic. |
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The National History and Archaeology
Museum of Constanta is one of the richest museums in Romania
and the second largest in the country, after the National
History Museum in Bucharest. |
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Our first attempt to get into the
museum was unsuccessful. No local currency, no entry!
Luckily we found an ATM and acquired 50 Lei (about £10). We
were in business! |
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The collection consists of over 430,000
objects dating from the Paleolithic to modern times. Included
are Greek, Romanian, Byzantine and medieval objects (stone,
bronze and iron tools and weapons), ceramics, antique architectural
elements (columns, capitals, pediments, scenery, etc..),
ancient sculptures, glass vases, bronze statues, jewelry,
coins (the collection includes silver, bronze and gold coins,
some of them unique), icons, documents, maps, models, photographs,
telegrams, magazines, objects of some personalities of the
early twentieth century, furniture and other objects of
great historical significance. |
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The Glykon Snake - a unique piece in the world, representing
a deity of the romanian mythology (II century BC) |
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Fortuna with Pontos - protective deities of Tomis city and
harbor (II-III century BC) |
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After an interesting visit, we went
on to the Roman mosaic building close by. |
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The Roman Mosaic building is located
close to the Museum of National History and Archaeology
and was discovered in 1959 when other work was being done
in Ovidiu Square. Further research discovered that the monument
was built in the fourth century and gradually spread until
around the sixth century, when it stopped. In its glory
times the edifice represented the largest building of its
kind in the whole Roman Empire and served as a link between
the port and the ancient city. Originally, the building
spanned three of the four terraces of the Tomis harbour
waterfront. The first terrace was located at the current
Ovidiu Square and connected with one of the ancient city's
public markets. Some huts and an impressive hall with a
mosaic pavement occupied the next terrace of the building.
The mosaic hall represents the actual place of meeting of
the merchants and officials of that time. The last terrace
was situated on the ancient harbor quays. The building was
equipped with a rainwater drainage system. With the fall
of the Tomis fortress in the sixth century, the building
was not maintained and degraded. However, being made of
good quality mosaic the floor has been preserved very well.
Of a total area of 2000 square metres of mosaic pavement,
only an area of about 850 square metres is preserved. |
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An unusal architectural style...
wonder how that got past the planning stage? |
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Carol Mosque |
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Carol I Mosque, named after King Carol I, is located
in the Ovidiu Square area. Construction started in 1910
and was completed in 1913. The building contains a unique
mixture of Egyptian, Byzantine and Romanian architectural
styles. The 47 metre high minaret dominates the area.
There are 140 steps up to the terrace at the top of the
minaret, with a seemingly endless spiral staircase (which
Bruce can confirm!), from where there is lovely view of
the city and the harbour.
The mosque has many heritage objects, among which is
the Abdul Hamid carpet, one of the oldest oriental rugs
in Europe. The carpet, which has an area of 144 square
meters and weighs about 500 kilograms, was donated by
the sultan of the island of Ada Kaleh (a piece of land
located in the middle of the Danube, 3 kilometers downstream
from Orsova). The island sank in 1970 (following the Iron
Gates dam project), and the carpet was donated to the
mosque of Constanta.
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As the guide book predicted, the views from the top of the tower
were lovely.
Geoff decided not to brave the "endless spiral staircase"
and as there were no other takers, Bruce got to experience it
for himself!
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Another quote from the guide book:
"The touristic harbour of Tomis is one of Constanta's
most famous locations for both tourists and locals. Whatever
the season, it is the place of choice for people who want
to admire the sea or just walk on the seafront and where
luxury yachts and sailing boats rest. Waterfront terraces
and numerous chic restaurants serving fish dishes can be
enjoyed". |
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Our ship in the distance... a good
feeling to see it there awaiting our return. |
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Geoff looking up at me enviously (or is that
thankfully?) |
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Feeling tired, but happy, we walked
slowly back to the port. |
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After another lovely late afternoon
tea on board, Bruce decided to disembark once again and
go into the terminal building to make use of the free wi-fi.
Within minutes of sitting down, who should walk in but Jannie,
cruise director from the Island Sky. They spent half an
hour chatting and exchanging stories since last meeting
three years before. |
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Another departure, another stunning
sunset! |
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Goodbye to Constanta and to the
Island Sky - we hope to see you again next year in Edinburgh! |
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Next stop Burgas and the nearby
city-museum of Nessebur. |
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