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Horticultural hotspots & architectural
anomalies in balmy Batumi
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At the risk of sounding repetitive and
boring, we awoke to yet another beautiful dawn as we approached
the Georgian port of Batumi. |
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The overnight voyage from Trabzon to
Batumi had been a shortish one, but our experience of the
country we were about to visit would make the distance seem
a lot further in cultural terms. |
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Even from this distance, we could
tell that today was going to be a somewhat different experience. |
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Batumi is the capital of Adjara, an
autonomous republic in southwest Georgia. The climate is
sub-tropical. It is affected by the onshore flow from the
Black Sea and the mountains which surround it. It also has
signficant rainfall all year round, with few extremes of
temperature. We were very fortunate to be here on a beautifully
sunny, warm and dry day. |
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The skyline is strange. Not
having done any research about the city or the country
beforehand, we wondered how to interpret what we
were seeing! Our first impression was of a quiet,
pleasant, clean and interesting town, despite the
odd looking buildings. |
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The only reference I can find to this structure
is that it is a "sculpture with Georgian
language as genetic code".
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The place where we docked, very
close to the centre of town, looked pleasant and welcoming, although
finding the way out didn't seem clear! |
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We could see coaches waiting for
us. We were looking forward to getting off the ship and seeing more
of this unusual place. |
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Some passengers had chosen to visit
a fort today, but we had elected to go to the botanical gardens,
located just outside the city. |
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From the gardens, we could look
back at Batumi's skyline and see our ship (on the left). |
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After a very pleasant morning walking
around the gardens and having the various zones explained to us,
we were taken back into town. |
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Once we got back into the centre
of town, the rest of the guided tour was done on foot. |
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There was a lot of the new... |
...and rather less of the old. |
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Church of Saint Nicholas |
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The city is a strange confection
of the old and the new, made to look like the old. |
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Piazza Square with its distinctly Italian
feel is a little incongruous for Georgia, but in Batumi,
when it comes to architecture, it seems anything goes! The
Square covers about 5700 square metres and is surrounded
by the Piazza complex, which includes a hotel, a couple
of restaurants, a café and a pub. The architecture
is distinguished by mosaics and stained glass art. |
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Church of Saint Nicholas |
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The church, built by the Greek community
in 1865, was the only church in Batumi to survive the Soviet
era without devastation. Though closed in the 1930s, it
was reopened after 10-12 years when women petitioned following
World War II. Residents came in secret for services in both
Georgian and Russian. The exterior was restored in 1998
and the interior in 1999. At that time icons of St. Nicholas,
St. George and the Theotokus were brought from the Greek
island Khiros. |
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Some nice examples of the more traditional
buildings. It seems a pity that money couldn't have been spent on
more buldings like these. |
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Some of the newer buildings left
us lost for words! |
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This building, with what looks like
a smaller version of the London Eye built into the side of it, is
simply bizarre. |
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Statue of Medea |
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European Square |
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Disneyland? |
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Primorsky Park, founded in 1884,
with its colonnade and musical fountains |
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The town seemed eerily quiet. Where were all the people? Perhaps
they all come out at night?
This BBC piece explains more about the city than we were able
to uncover during our short stay.
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At the end of the official tour,
we strolled back to the ship for lunch. For dessert, Bruce had the
pistacchio ice-cream, which was delicious! |
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After lunch and with a free afternoon,
we decided to walk back through the town to see if we could find
any more people. |
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We did see a few more people this
time, but not that many. |
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The Church of the Mother of God is
a Georgian Orthodox cathedral, originally built as a Catholic
church early in the 1900s. During the Soviet period the
church was closed and converted into a high-voltage laboratory.
In 1989 the church was transferred to the Georgian Orthodox
Church. |
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Geoff's keen eye for health and
safety picked up several risks that concerned him. Here are three
examples. |
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The older buildings seemed quite
neglected. We felt that we had to photograph them, because they
probably wouldn't be around for long! |
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Back on board, we were treated to
a superb performance of Georgian dancing. What a treat! |
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Video: Dancing 1 |
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Video: Dancing 2 |
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Video: Dancing 3 |
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Video: Dancing 4 |
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Video: Dancing 5 |
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Video: Dancing 6 |
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As the shadows lengthened, it was time for us to sail once again.
We left the port on schedule at 5.00pm and it would be 45 hours
before we would see land again at our next port of call, Constanta.
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We will never forget our day in
Batumi. We were still scratching our heads, trying to work it out,
as the shoreline retreated. |
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After one of the best sunsets of the
trip so far, we were in for another treat later that evening.
Our cruise director Neil interrupted dinner to tell us that
we should make the effort to go on deck to see the blood
moon, caused by a lunar eclipse. It was an amazing sight. |
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Video: Blood Moon |
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