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A walk along the seafront, visiting
a Mosque and eating a gözleme in Izmir
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Saturday 4th October 2014
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It is a fair distance between Bodrum
and Izmir and our ship was not scheduled to arrive until
2.00pm, so we had a quiet morning. We went to a lecture
about Troy (we were due to visit it in a couple of days
time) and found it very interesting. |
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We loved having a cabin with a balcony,
so that we could spend time there quietly when we wanted to. |
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Just before lunch, Izmir's impressive
skyline came into view with the new twin Folkart Towers dominating. |
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We docked behind this elegant Silversea
ship. |
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This afternoon's excursion was to the ancient site of
Ephesus. We had been there two years previously and it
was one of the highlights of that trip, but as we had
seen it and had not seen Izmir (we docked at Kusadasi
last time), we decided to explore the city instead. Susan,
on the other hand, went on the excursion.
Armed with our maps, we set off on foot. (We could have
used the shuttle bus, but felt that we needed a walk -
all the good food and drink on the ship was beginning
to have an effect!)
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Izmir (formerly Smyrna) is located at the far end of
the long and narrow Gulf of Izmir. It is the third largest
city and the second largest harbour in Turkey and is also
known as “The Pearl of the Aegean". The guide
book states that it is a lively and pleasant modern city
rising in tiers on the slopes of the surrounding mountains,
with broad avenues, lined by palm trees.
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Today was the first day of the Festival
of Sacrifice, a four day holiday in Turkey. We had been
advised that nothing much would be open, but we were surprised
by just how quiet the city was. It was all but deserted. |
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As we walked along the seafront, we noticed several of
these unusual looking water containers. The dogs seemed
to like them, but then they did look a bit like toilets!
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We don't know what this striking sculture is meant to represent
and further research has proved inconclusive. The only reference
to be found is on google maps as "Gündogdu Myd."
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This bouncy prototype dock looked
like fun, but we weren't going to risk trying it out for ourselves. |
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Our guide notes suggested that we pay
a visit to Saint Polycarpe church, one of the oldest standing
churches in Izmir. Unfortunately, it was closed and we didn't
get to see the interior, which is apparently well worth
seeing. |
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Despite the almost deserted streets,
one man did manage to spot us and give us a card advertising
his brother's leather shop in the bazaar - the only shop
open in the bazaar today, he confidently told us! |
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This doorway looked like it might have
led somewhere significant, but I now think it's just a local
government office. |
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We found the Mosque, which, like everything
else so far, was almost deserted. |
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Inside, there was a solitary worshipper. |
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We liked the interior very much.
Something about it reminded me of the
Süleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul.
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After leaving the Mosque, we wandered
past the elegant walls of the (closed!) bazaar. |
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Video: Standing and listening to
the sounds of music from a nearby cafe and just enjoying the tranquility
of Izmir.
We haven't been here before, but we suspect that this is unusual
for the city!
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More largely deserted streets, but
some of the cafes were beginning to shows signs of life. |
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It was then that Geoff spotted this
lady making a local delicacy, the gözleme. |
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Finally, some people!
We were in Konak Square. |
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The Clock Tower |
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Against Bruce's better judgement, Geoff
dragged him back to the "Carsi Cafe"(!) to sample
one of those gözlemes. |
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It was delicious!
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Afterwards, we had to make a decision. Take the shuttle
bus back to the ship from the meeting point in Konak Square,
or retrace our steps and walk all the way back to the
port. It was at least an hour's walk, but it was such
a pleasant day and with people now much more in evidence,
we decided that it might be interesting to meander back
slowly on foot. It was the right decision.
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We enjoyed seeing all the activity;
from coffee sellers to men selling fresh muscles with lemon,
to groups of family members taking photos of one another. |
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As we got closer to the port, the
area began to look more prosperous. We decided to stop at a cafe
for a drink and some free wi-fi. |
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As the light started to fade, we walked on slowly back to the
ship.
We were going to be in port overnight so there was no rush to
get back.
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We were amused to find this note
in our cabin when we returned to the ship. It was
accompanied by a bottle of wine.
We didn't know at that stage that
the party was being held directly below us!
Geoff put in his ear plugs and
wasn't disturbed by it, but Bruce heard most of
it.
Nevertheless, the celebrations
sounded like a lot of fun and at 1.00am precisely,
the noise stopped! |
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