Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     
   
 
 
 
Greece

Izmir (Day 2): Ancient Pergamon's Acropolis & Asclepion

 
Sunday 5th October 2014
 
The day dawned a litle hazily. There was the brief promise of full sunshine, but then it turned mostly cloudy. This was a pity, because sunshine is the amateur photographer's best friend and we were to be visiting some wonderful places, starting with the ancient city of Pergamon, with it's amazing Acropolis and vertiginous theatre. The next stop was to be the very interesting Asclepion, both of which are located in beautiful countryside.

This was the view from our cabin early in the morning.

We were a quite amused by the advert on the hoarding, carefully worded to refer to Izmir as the best cruise destination of Europe!

Our route for the day. Given the distance, it was to be a full day excursion, with lunch provided in Bergama, the modern town close to the ancient sites. (I think we took the shortest route shown below)
Our coach was the first to leave and the roads were quiet. It was also day two of a four day national holiday, which probably explained the calm.
We soon lost our head-start, when our coach was pulled over for a routine police check and we watched as all of the other coaches carrying passengers from our ship overtook us. We stopped at a motorway service station about thirty minutes before our scheduled arrival at Pergamon, which proved to be a little chaotic. All of the coaches had arrived within minutes of each other and because we were the last one in, there was quite a long wait until everybody had made use of the facilities. The consequence was that the scheduled 10 minute stop became 30 minutes.
Once we got back on the road, it wasn't too long before we reached the town of Bergama and we were driving up the hill towards our first stop at the base of the Acropolis.

 

Geoff was delighted (not!) to see that we had to take a cable car up to the top...
 
...well, it looks like he is getting over his fear of cable cars after all. It must have been that one in Santorini that did it!
 
At the top, there were the inevitable shopping opportunities...
...and Susan found a cute little friend.
This model shows how the site might have looked, but it is only by wandering about the remains that you get a good idea of the scale of it and of the levels. For example, the theatre shown in the model is, in reality, built on an almost precipitous slope, which isn't clear in the model.
This drawing of ancient Pergamon, by a 19th century German archaeologist, gives a better idea of the site, in my opinion.
 
On the upper part of the Acropolis, evidence of the following structures still exists:-
  • The Hellenistic Theatre with a seating capacity of 10,000 and the steepest seating of any known theatre in the ancient world
  • The Sanctuary of Trajan (also known as the Trajaneum)
  • The Sanctuary of Athena
  • The Library of Pergamum
  • The Royal palaces
  • The Heroön - a shrine where the kings of Pergamon, particularly, Attalus I and Eumenes II, were worshipped.
  • The Temple of Dionysus
  • The Upper Agora
  • The Roman baths complex
  • Diodorus Pasporos heroon
  • Arsenal
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Roman Archway near the sanctuary of the rulers' cult (Heroon)
Our guide for the day
 
The Sanctuary of Athena Nikephoros
 
 
Lower gallery of Trajan´s temple
The Trajaneum, the sanctuary of the Temple of Trajan
 
The Hellenistic Theatre
 
 
 
The Temple of Trajan
 
 
 
 
Statue of the Emperor Trajan (next to the Trajan Temple)
 
 
Temple of Trajan
 
The temple is flanked by stoas (covered walkway or porticos) on three sides, the one at the back being higher than the others.
 
 
The views from the Acropolis were lovely. I zoomed into the Asclepion, which we would be visiting later.
 
 
 
Site of the Great Altar of Zeus
At the site where the Great Altar once was is this model.
The Great Altar itself is in the Pergamon Museum, (Eastern) Berlin.
Bruce was lucky enough to see it there in July 1989, before the fall of the Berlin Wall!
Close to the site of the Great Altar is a side access to the theatre, which is roughly half way between the top and the bottom of it. Even from this vantage point, it still seemed a long way up and a long way down!
 
Remains of the Temple of Dionysos on the north side of the theatre.
 
Looking down, after entering the theatre from it's side entrance.
Looking up, from within the theatre, to The Byzantine tower.
 
Having clambered all over the upper Acropolis, it was time to take the cable car down again.
 
Some groups went to lunch before the next scheduled site visit, whilst others (including our group) were taken to visit the Asclepion first. Unfortunately, it took some time for us to get to the Asclepion because of roadworks (we think) and we somehow went through the centre of Bergama a couple of times before our driver eventually found an alternative route. Part of the "Red Basilica" can be seen in this photo.
Geoff was interested to see these old Renault 12's, which, he said, were once quite common in the UK.
Looking back up to the Acropolis (zoomed in) from the parking area at the Asclepion.
 
 

Existing feature of the Asclepion include:-

  • the Roman theatre
  • the North Stoa
  • the South Stoa
  • the Temple of Asclepius
  • a circular treatment center (sometimes known as the Temple of Telesphorus)
  • a healing spring
  • an underground passageway
  • a library
  • the Via Tecta (or the Sacred Way, which is an 820 metre colonnaded street leading to the sanctuary) and
  • a propylon (monumental gateway)
The via Tecta
 
 
 
   
 
 
Video: Listening to the call to prayer from the nearby town as we stood in the Via Tecta
 
 
 
 
The Roman Theatre
 
 
 
 
   
 
After visiting the Asclepion, we were feeling quite peckish and looking forward to our lunch at a restaurant in Bergama. Sadly, it was a rather disappointing experience. There was plenty of food available, but it was buffet style and most of it was luke-warm. There was also a bit of excitement when water came cascading down the stairs at the back of the restaurant, causing a mini-flood near the buffet table. We were looking forward to getting back to the luxury of our ship! The colourful steps were next to the restaurant.
Family transport, Turkey style.
On the way back to the ship, we tried to capture a flavour of local life, including a curious mix of modern shopping malls and roadside garden objet for sale... well actually, there seemed to be thousands of garden gnomes for sale at frequent intervals along the roadside!
 
So many of the buildings looked like they were partially under contruction. Were there any planning regulations, we wondered?
The outdoor escalators looked a little unusual.
It took us a while to work out was "Jandarma" meant, because we had seen quite a few references to the term. We later found out that it is a governmental armed security and law enforcement force, responsible for the maintenance of public order in areas that fall outside the jurisdiction of police forces (generally in rural areas), as well as assuring internal security and general border controls ...amongst other things!
 
We knew that we were back in the city of Izmir when the twin Folkart Towers came into view.
Back on board, it was soon time to move on and we sailed for our next port of call, Canakkale.
 
That evening, we were invited to a cocktail party!
 

Janita was looking very elegant!




We drank a toast to Jane, who was celebrating her birthday back home


 
 
As if one special invitation wasn't enough, we were also invited to have dinner with the hotel manager. It turned out to be a very entertaining dining experience and a memorable end to a very busy day.
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble