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Izmir (Day 2): Ancient Pergamon's
Acropolis & Asclepion
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The day dawned a litle hazily. There
was the brief promise of full sunshine, but then it turned
mostly cloudy. This was a pity, because sunshine is the
amateur photographer's best friend and we were to be visiting
some wonderful places, starting with the ancient city of
Pergamon, with it's amazing Acropolis and vertiginous theatre.
The next stop was to be the very interesting Asclepion,
both of which are located in beautiful countryside. |
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This was the view from our cabin early
in the morning.
We were a quite amused by the advert on
the hoarding, carefully worded to refer to Izmir as the
best cruise destination of Europe!
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Our route for the day. Given the distance, it was to be
a full day excursion, with lunch provided in Bergama, the
modern town close to the ancient sites. (I think we took the
shortest route shown below) |
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Our coach was the first to leave
and the roads were quiet. It was also day two of a four day national
holiday, which probably explained the calm. |
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We soon lost our head-start, when our coach was pulled over
for a routine police check and we watched as all of the other
coaches carrying passengers from our ship overtook us. We
stopped at a motorway service station about thirty minutes
before our scheduled arrival at Pergamon, which proved to
be a little chaotic. All of the coaches had arrived within
minutes of each other and because we were the last one in,
there was quite a long wait until everybody had made use of
the facilities. The consequence was that the scheduled 10
minute stop became 30 minutes. |
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Once we got back on the road, it wasn't
too long before we reached the town of Bergama and we were
driving up the hill towards our first stop at the base of
the Acropolis. |
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Geoff was delighted (not!) to see that
we had to take a cable car up to the top... |
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...well, it looks like he is getting
over his fear of cable cars after all. It must have been that one
in Santorini that did it! |
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At the top, there were the inevitable
shopping opportunities... |
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...and Susan found a cute little
friend. |
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This model shows how the site might
have looked, but it is only by wandering about the remains
that you get a good idea of the scale of it and of the levels.
For example, the theatre shown in the model is, in reality,
built on an almost precipitous slope, which isn't clear
in the model. |
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This drawing of ancient Pergamon,
by a 19th century German archaeologist, gives a
better idea of the site, in my opinion. |
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On the upper part of the Acropolis, evidence of
the following structures still exists:-
- The Hellenistic Theatre with a seating capacity
of 10,000 and the steepest seating of any known
theatre in the ancient world
- The Sanctuary of Trajan (also known as the Trajaneum)
- The Sanctuary of Athena
- The Library of Pergamum
- The Royal palaces
- The Heroön - a shrine where the kings of
Pergamon, particularly, Attalus I and Eumenes
II, were worshipped.
- The Temple of Dionysus
- The Upper Agora
- The Roman baths complex
- Diodorus Pasporos heroon
- Arsenal
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Roman Archway near the sanctuary of the rulers'
cult (Heroon) |
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Our guide for the day |
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The Sanctuary of Athena Nikephoros |
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Lower gallery of Trajan´s
temple |
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The Trajaneum, the sanctuary of
the Temple of Trajan |
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The Hellenistic Theatre |
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The Temple of Trajan |
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Statue of the Emperor Trajan (next
to the Trajan Temple) |
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Temple of Trajan |
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The temple is flanked by stoas (covered
walkway or porticos) on three sides, the one at the back being higher
than the others. |
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The views from the Acropolis were
lovely. I zoomed into the Asclepion, which we would be visiting
later. |
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Site of the Great Altar of Zeus |
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At the site where the Great Altar
once was is this model. |
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The Great Altar itself is in the
Pergamon Museum, (Eastern) Berlin.
Bruce was lucky enough to see it there in July 1989, before the
fall of the Berlin Wall! |
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Close to the site of the Great Altar
is a side access to the theatre, which is roughly half way
between the top and the bottom of it. Even from this vantage
point, it still seemed a long way up and a long way down! |
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Remains of the Temple of Dionysos on
the north side of the theatre. |
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Looking down, after entering the
theatre from it's side entrance. |
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Looking up, from within the theatre,
to The Byzantine tower. |
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Having clambered all over the upper
Acropolis, it was time to take the cable car down again. |
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Some groups went to lunch before the
next scheduled site visit, whilst others (including our
group) were taken to visit the Asclepion first. Unfortunately,
it took some time for us to get to the Asclepion because
of roadworks (we think) and we somehow went through the
centre of Bergama a couple of times before our driver eventually
found an alternative route. Part of the "Red Basilica"
can be seen in this photo. |
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Geoff was interested to see these
old Renault 12's, which, he said, were once quite common in the
UK. |
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Looking back up to the Acropolis
(zoomed in) from the parking area at the Asclepion. |
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Existing feature of the Asclepion include:-
- the Roman theatre
- the North Stoa
- the South Stoa
- the Temple of Asclepius
- a circular treatment center (sometimes known as the Temple of
Telesphorus)
- a healing spring
- an underground passageway
- a library
- the Via Tecta (or the Sacred Way, which is an 820 metre colonnaded
street leading to the sanctuary) and
- a propylon (monumental gateway)
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The via Tecta |
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Video: Listening to the call to
prayer from the nearby town as we stood in the Via Tecta |
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The Roman Theatre |
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After visiting the Asclepion, we were
feeling quite peckish and looking forward to our lunch at
a restaurant in Bergama. Sadly, it was a rather disappointing
experience. There was plenty of food available, but it was
buffet style and most of it was luke-warm. There was also
a bit of excitement when water came cascading down the stairs
at the back of the restaurant, causing a mini-flood near
the buffet table. We were looking forward to getting back
to the luxury of our ship! The colourful steps were next
to the restaurant. |
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Family transport, Turkey style. |
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On the way back to the ship, we tried
to capture a flavour of local life, including a curious
mix of modern shopping malls and roadside garden objet for
sale... well actually, there seemed to be thousands of garden
gnomes for sale at frequent intervals along the roadside! |
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So many of the buildings looked
like they were partially under contruction. Were there any planning
regulations, we wondered? |
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The outdoor escalators looked a little
unusual. |
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It took us a while to work out was
"Jandarma" meant, because we had seen quite a
few references to the term. We later found out that it is
a governmental armed security and law enforcement force,
responsible for the maintenance of public order in areas
that fall outside the jurisdiction of police forces (generally
in rural areas), as well as assuring internal security and
general border controls ...amongst other things! |
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We knew that we were back in the
city of Izmir when the twin Folkart Towers came into view. |
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Back on board, it was soon time
to move on and we sailed for our next port of call, Canakkale. |
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That evening, we were invited to
a cocktail party! |
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Janita was looking very elegant!
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We drank a toast to Jane, who was celebrating
her birthday back home
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As if one special invitation wasn't enough, we were
also invited to have dinner with the hotel manager.
It turned out to be a very entertaining dining experience
and a memorable end to a very busy day. |
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