Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     
   
 
 
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A visit to Santiago da Compostela
from the port of La Coruna

Monday 20th May 2024

We had clearly slept very well, because when we awoke we were already docked in the Galician port of La Coruna (also known as A Coruña in the Galician language).

 

 

 

 

The early morning scene from the ship was beautifully tranquil and calm. We hoped that the rest of the day would stay that way, although we were fully aware that our destination for today, Santiago da Compostela, is a city popular with pilgrims from all over the world and that it might therefore be quite crowded.

 
 
We had a long day ahead, including a hike, so Geoff decided he needed something a little more substantial than normal for breakfast. He enjoyed his French Toast with Maple Syrup.
 
By 9:00 am, we were on our way. The distance shown below includes the return trip. Our coach was the only one going directly to the village of Villestro, from where we would be walking to Obradoiro Square, the main square in Santiago da Compostela. At the end of the day, we would return directly from the city's coach station to our ship at the cruise terminal in La Coruna.
 
At just before 10:30 am, we arrived in the village of Villestro, the starting point for our walk.
 
This is the route we walked.
 
 
Another horreo, very similar to the one we had seen yesterday at Pazo De Rubianes.
 
Our walk today is one of many well-trodden walks in this area and so it is well signposted. Many people walk hundreds of miles on pilgrimages to Santiago, but we were only doing a small section of one of the walks and not for any religious reasons. It was just good to get some exercise in the countryside, see the scenery and admire the wild flowers.
 
 
 
 
In some parts, there were some fairly steep inclines, but for the most part, it was very flat.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
From about half way along the walk, we began to get glimpses of Santiago.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Our group walked quite briskly and before we knew it we were entering the outskirts of the city.
 
 
 
 
 
At twelve noon, an hour and a half after setting off on our walk, we arrived in Obradoiro Square. We were right in the centre of Santiago da Compostela.
 
 
A neoclassical palace, Pazo de Raxoi ("Palace of Raxoi"), is located on the square opposite the cathedral and is the seat of the city council and regional government.
 
 
Our guide informed us that we had one hour of free time before lunch, after which we would be visiting the cathedral, so we decided to go off and do a bit random exploring.
 
 
 
Tarta de Santiago was on sale everywhere. Coincidently, we had eaten this during our flight from Santiago, Chile to Madrid in March and had mistakenly assumed it was named after that city. We now realised that this city was was far more likely to have been where it originated. Furthermore, we liked it so much when we had it on the plane that Geoff recreated it very successfully after we got home from Chile.
 
With 30 minutes to kill before lunch and feeling slightly dehydrated after our walk, how could we resist sitting down and having a drink with two of our fellow travellers?
 
 
 
Returning to the main square, we were taken into the elegant Hostal dos Reis Católicos for lunch.
 
Entertainment was provided while we ate.
 
 
Lunch was served tapas style and we were free to explore the inner courtyards of the hotel afterwards.
 
 
 
After lunch, we gathered outside the hotel. From there, our guide led us across the square for our timed visit to the amazing cathedral.
 
 
 
 
We entered Santiago de Compostela Cathedral via the entrance on Platerias square.
 
 
A well known feature, and symbol of the cathedral, is the Botafumeiro, which dispenses clouds of incense and is one of the largest of its kind in the world. It is famous for its swinging motion during the Pilgrim's Mass and other solemn dates, where it can reach speeds of about 60 km/h. Sadly, it had been taken down for maintenance when we visited, but we did see another one in the museum.
 
 
 
 
We were given tickets to go into the museum within the church. We weren't permitted to take photos. These photos were taken by others (probably without permission) but they are a nice reminder of what we actually saw.
 

An incense burner (thurible) was in the museum. The most famous one is the Botafumeiro, which has been in use since the Middle Ages. The second one, known as La Alcachofa (the Artichoke) or La Repollo (the Cabbage), was created in 2013. We were told which one this was, but we can't remember!

 
These photos were take by us in the courtyard just beyond the museum.
 
 
 
Leaving the cathedral, we gathered in Quintana Square for some further explanations of what we had just seen.
 
 
 
 
 
We left the square via these steps...
 
...and arrived at the north facade of the cathedral in Praza da Inmaculada.
 
Monastery of San Martiño Pinario, also in Praza da Inmaculada.
 
 
 
 
 
After our photo session, we began walking to the coach station...
 
 
...pausing for more photos at San Francisco de Val de Deus, which is a Franciscan monastery.
 
 
An hour and a half after boarding our coach, we were back in La Coruna.
 
 
La Coruna is the region's second biggest city after Vigo (which we visited a few years previously). It was clear that this port was designed for visits by the large cruise ships... quite a contrast from Vilagarcia de Arousa yesterday!
 
 
By 5:30pm we were all back on board and at 6:00pm we sailed.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
We toasted our departure from Spain, and then had dinner as we began our 474 nautical mile voyage to Guernsey. We were only informed a couple of months later that the immigration authorities had failed to record the fact that we had left the Schengen zone, so we are keeping fingers crossed that there aren't any repurcussions when we want to visit the zone again).
 
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble