We set out from Kanazawa at 09:00 on the coach - the staff waving goodbye as usual - to Takayama. The roads were quiet and we had a chance to see the Japanese countryside for the first time - the Shinkansen being too fast and going through too many tunnels to get a proper look. As we climbed into the Japanese Alps, the Autumn colours of the maple trees became more intense.

We arrived ar Shirakawago at 11:30. We stopped first at a viewpoint over the village, where not only where there great views of the village, but also an excellent example of "Japlish", the curious almost-English phrases that so many Japanese have on their T-shirts.

In the village, there was the Wada house, with its beautiful screens of golf leaf with paintings of leaves, cranes and other natural objects, as well as a remarkable altar.

Back on the coach, pausing only to take some photos of our fellow travellers, and off through the beautiful Autumn scenery of the mountains.

We arrived at our destination the Hotel Associa, Takayama, where we were greeted by this sign. Apparently, the Japanese do not have a letter L or R in their alphabet, but another letter which lies somewhere between the two. Hence the confusion (and the source of so many Japanese jokes).

The hotel had great views of the mountains, especially from the onsen bath on the top floor.

Time to bathe and change, and off to the teppanyaki-style (griddled meat) Suzuya restaurant which Chris knew (what would we have done without him?) This place specialised in Hida beef, where the cows are cosseted and massaged to produce meat with unique marbelling and, we were pleased to discover, the tenderest, most delicious, beef I have ever had. And the staff spoke English! the best meal so far. (No pictures - too busy stuffing face.)

The next morning, we caught the free hotel coach into town and visited the market, with its lovely old ladies, and several buildings, including the Yoshijima Heritage House - an old merchant's house.

We had to fend for ourselves at lunchtime, but Chris was there, as ever, and knew of a good (ramen) noodle restaurant. It was good! We saw a Buddhist monk at the bar, wearing a Rolex watch, drinking beer and smoking. Go figure: by this time, we had stopped asking "Why?" in Japan, but just accepted Japan is different to England. For example, we had vegetarian noodles in the restaurant. It had pork in it. I rest my case.

After lunch, we went to the Takayama Yatai Kaikan where four of the eleven floats (yatai) from the Sakurayama Hachiman Shrine are exhibited. These are paraded through the streets at the autumn festival. The elaborately decorated floats are several hundred years old. We watched a short film of their history. It was warm, it was dark, it was in Japanese, and yes, we all fell fast asleep.

At the shrine itself we saw an exhibition of bonsai chrysanthemums. We were to see several more during the holiday.

Back to the hotel to bathe and change and then off for another culinary adventure. Another pub style meal - not bad, but with as much as you could drink, it went very well. Then, after several beers, Chris stood up and announced that tomorrow would be an early start: on the coach at 08:00. Good timing, Chris: wait until we are relaxed!