We left the Miya Rikyu ryokan on foot after breakfast to catch the 09:15 ferry from Miyajima island. As we left, we said a fond farewell to the torii gate and a not-so-fond goodbye to Mount Misen.

We then got on a packed commuter train to Hiroshima. From there, Geoff was delighted that we took the Shinkansen from Hiroshima to Osaka. Again, it was a series 700.

We changed at Osaka onto a "Thunderer" (Series 681 Super Raicho) to Kanazawa. It is one of the fastest narrow-gauge trains in Japan, with a maximum speed of 130kph. It covered the 268km from Osaka to Kanazawa in 140 minutes. The front and back - both driving ends - are different to allow trains to be joined.

We arrived at 15:30 at Kanazawa station, where a fleet of taxis took us to the Kanazawa Excel Hotel Tokyu, where we were reunited with our luggage, last seen in Kyoto four days ago. Hooray - clean clothes!

After a shower and a change of clothing, we were off again; this time on a very overcrowded tourist bus to the Higashi Kuruwa - the former high-class pleasure quarter with its traditional shops and tea houses.

We went to the Ochaya Shima, a tea house with stunning decor inside, and a beautiful garden in the courtyard, showing how one can make a great garden in a tiny dark space.

Kanazawa is known for its lacquer ware and gold leaf. So we bought a beautiful red lacquer bowl decorated with a gold leaf disc from a shop called Hakuza.

The next morning was Thursday, 27th October and unbelievably, we had been in Japan for a week. What lot we had done already!

We drove off to the Kenroku-en Garden, one of Japan's "great three" (the others are Kairakuen Garden in Mito and Korakuen Garden in Okayama). The spacious garden used to be the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle, a private garden of the ruling Maeda family. It was constructed over a period of two centuries and not open to the public until 1871. It features various ponds, streams, waterfalls, bridges, teahouses, trees, stones and flowers. The water for the many streams and rivers of the park is still brought there from a distant river by a sophisticated water system constructed in 1632.

The name Kenroku-en literally means "Garden of the Six Sublimities", referring to spaciousness, seclusion, artificiality, antiquity, abundant water and broad views, six attributes that make up a perfect garden according to a Chinese theory.

We got there early to avoid the crowds. And indeed, when we left, it was teeming. We enjoyed the tranquility and sublime beauty by ourselves for an hour. One of the best experiences of a great holiday. Wonderful.

Next to the garden was the Seisonkaku Villa, built in 1863, during the last years of the Edo Period, by Maeda Nariyasu, a Maeda lord, for his mother. It is one of the most elegant, remaining samurai villas in Japan. with rooms coated in gold dust. The interior was beautiful (see their website) and the garden tranquil. The garden design forms part of the whole and a veranda roof is cantilevered so that no pillars spoil the view.

From 1583 to the end of the Edo Period, Kanazawa Castle was the seat of the powerful Maeda clan, lords of Kaga, a feudal domain ranking second only to the Tokugawa possessions in terms of size and rice production.

After lunch, we went to the Myoryu-ji temple, popularly known as the Ninja temple. Built in 1643 both as a place of worship and a watchtower on the edge of the town. The architecture is very complex, with 29 rooms with secret doors and passages.

Putting shoes back on after our visit to the temple - a typical scene on the tour!

We then had another walk through this delightful town, where we stumbled across an umbrella shop with its charming and chatty owner.

Finally, we visited the Nomura House, which once belonged to a samuri, with its serene garden.

Whilst the town was memorable for its beauty, we also remembered it for the worst food we encountered. Chris took us to a Yakitori restaurant, where grilled food is served on sticks. We had grilled pork fat, grilled chicken skin and, the highlight, grilled chicken cartilage. This is not me being rude - this is actually what was being served and chosen deliberately by the Japanese customers!