Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     

Kyoto

 
 
 
 
At 02:00 we were wide awake due to jet lag, but later dozed off to be woken at 07:00 by an alarm call thoughtfully requested by Chris for us all. Breakfast in the restaurant provided more wonderful views over the city - and more raw fish. Also my first taste of aloe vera in syrup - I had no idea you could eat it: it was very good indeed.
At 09:00 we all got on to a coach and were soon at the Ryoan-ji Temple, founded in 1450, with its beautiful grounds and famous Zen gravel garden.
The grounds had a Kaki (persimmon) tree laden with bright orange fruits. We were to see many more during the course of the tour.
Back to the coach and another short trip to the Rokuon-ji Temple with its astonishing and beautiful golden pavilion (Kinkaku-ji) reflected in the mirror pond (Kyoko-chi). The pavilion was built in the 13th century by the Shogun Yoshimitsu as his retirement villa. It was unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1950, but was carefully recreated. The site is very popular with the Japanese and we were often overwhelmed with groups of school children wearing yellow caps.
In the grounds there is the hall dedicated to the God of Fire, decorated with typical red lanterns.
Back to the coach and on to Nijo Castle, created in the 15th century by Shogun Ieyasu. It is a huge complex of buildings, surrounded by a massive moat.

If attackers got over the moat, they then had to go through a number of offset gates, leaving them subject to a rain of arrows.

Left: main entrance

 

 

Above: The Chinese-style Karamon Gate with its gold plated fixtures

 

Right: The Ninomaru complex: the Shogun's reception rooms. They can only be approached on nightingale floors which creak and squeak gently to warn of intruders.

Behind the Ninomaru complex is a Japanese garden. It was beautiful: a balance of the artificial and the natural.
Chris dragged us away reluctantly from the delights of the garden to the coach and after lunch (in an Italian-style restaurant!) we moved on to the Teji temple where there was a monthly flea market. It was very, very busy and there was a bewildering array of food, antiques and bric-a-brac. We witnessed a small girl lose her balloon and David (over 6 foot tall) gallantly tried to rescue it. We bought some dried baby figs - delicious!

Back to the coach and on to Sanjusangendo. It is the popular name for Rengeo-in, a temple in eastern Kyoto which is famous for its 1,001 statues of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. The temple was founded in 1164 and its present structures date from 1266. The main hall, which houses the statues, is, at over 100m, Japan's longest wooden structure. In its centre sits one large Kannon, flanked on each side by 500 smaller statues, standing in neat rows side by side, each as tall as a human being. Unfortunately, photography inside the building was forbidden.

Finally, we moved on to Shishen-do Temple, built in 1641 by the Samuri Ishikawa Jozan as a Zen temple and his retirement home. It has a famous garden divided into two levels. We found both house and garden beautiful and serene.

That evening, we were taken by Chris to a traditional Kyoto restaurant, where we were served at individual low tables (underneath which was a pit for European legs) by a trainee Geisha - a Miko, who also danced for us to the sound of a shamisen (three stringed lute). The food was - interesting. Beautiful to look at, but a little unusual for English taste, although some was delicious.

Afterwards we wandered around the Gion district where Geishas are often seen.

 
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble