Day five and time to leave Kyoto. Because we were travelling a lot for the next three days and the trains could not cope with large bags, Chris advised us to pack a small bag each and allow the rest of our baggage to be sent to Kanazawa.

At last Geoff was to travel on the famous shinkansen - the "Bullet Train". We travelled on the 09:25 train (Geoff says it was a 700 series) to Okayama, where we changed onto a local, slower, train.

We crossed onto Shikoku island over the Seto-Ohashi bridge - actually six double-decker bridges carrying road and rail.

We arrived at Matsuyama at 15:00, where we were met by a coach to take us to Matsuyama Castle (Matsuyamajo). We got as far as the car and coach park, but to get to the top, one could use a ski-lift or a cable car. Bruce took the former, and I the latter, so that I could capture these photographs of him and Marion.

Matsuyama Castle is set on top of Katsuyama Hill in the centre of the city and is 132m high. It was constructed from 1602 to 1627 by the samurai Yoshiaki Katoh.

There were great views over the city and towards the Inland Sea.

Afterwards, we went to Ishite-ji, literally meaning "stone hand temple", Matsuyama's most famous temple. The temple is known for its main hall and three storied pagoda, designated important cultural properties, all built in a typical architecture style of the Kamakura Period (1192-1333).

Colourful origami cranes were hanging from frames in the temple area.

Back to the coach and we were taken to the Dogo Spa ryokan - a traditional Japanese inn with a communal spa bath. Actually, on the outside, it looked like a modern hotel. But once you went into your room, it was very different indeed...

Above: the lobby, where one removes one's shoes.

Below: our room with tatami mats, low table and legless chairs.

Guests are expected to wear Yukata (informal unisex kimonos). So, when in Rome (or Matsuyama)... As I was standing in our room naked, trying to work out how to put the yukata on, a Japanese serving lady came in, quite unabashed, and modestly looking down to avoid direct eye contact (I do wish she had met my eyes), she showed me how to put on the kimono. We decided we had had enough sharing for one day and forewent the communal bath.

We all dressed up for the formal banquet.

Our individual low tables were laid out with a beautiful feast - mostly seafood. Not all of it cooked. Most of it delicious. We were served by a lady in a kimono, who always left the room with a bow to us. The hostess/manager of the ryokan also came in to welcome us with a gracious speech.

There were many more courses brought to us.

After dinner, we all went for a walk in the balmy streets of Matsuyama (in our yukatas!) and visited the famous clock.

We also saw the Dogo Onsen, one of Japan's oldest and most famous hot springs, with its Honkan, a Meiji period, wooden public bathhouse, dating from 1894. Besides bathing, the elegant complex offers tea, Japanese sweets and private rooms for relaxation after the bath.

When we got back, our rooms had been transformed into a bedroom. The futons, laid on top of the soft tatami mats, were surprisingly comfortable. The pillows were a little firm, and we later learned that they were filled with buckwheat. Nevertheless, we slept like logs.