Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     

Pecs: 17th May 2003

 
 
 
 
         

No, we didn’t.

We slept until 07:30. At 09:00 we arrived at Mohacs in Hungary where we moored alongside another ship. We chatted to the passengers – they were all Americans and were on the same journey to the Black Sea as us.

 

We were quickly cleared by customs and were allowed onshore by 10:00. The town was very pleasant: not particularly historic or interesting but bustling and the people seemed reasonably prosperous and cheerful. We found a cash dispenser and got some Hungarian Forints. We bought some post card then made our way to the Post Office where, with the aid of some hand gestures, we bought some stamps. Admittedly, there was a delay while the lady behind the counter tried to find out how much it was to post a card to South Africa… We then posted our cards: would they ever get there? (How could I have doubted it – the efficiency of the Hungarian Post Office meant that they arrived in England only a week later!)
         
We visited a church in the main square: modern but in the Byzantine style – very interesting.
         
We made our way back to the Viking Europe in time for lunch. I was good and had a salad, but Bruce had the works including pasta and pear tart. Then we were due to go on three coaches to Pecs (pronounced "Pezh"). However, only two turned up. Luckily, one was a double-decker and we were able to squeeze on, not without some difficulty for some of the more infirm passengers! Nevertheless, it was the fitter ones who complained… Our Hungarian guide introduced us to the driver, Atilla (apparently a common name in Hungary).The journey to Pecs took about 40 minutes, and we drove through some very attractive and fertile countryside with onions, corn, potatoes, apricots and other crops. Houses were well-maintained and several of them newly-built. Hungary was a good deal more prosperous than I had expected form a former Soviet bloc country.
         
We got to Pecs and walked from an old tower marking the city walls designed to defend the city from the Ottoman Empire (unsuccessfully – it was invaded in [date] and was under occupation until 1863.)
We walked along the garden until we came to the cathedral of St Stephen. Rebuilt in the 19th century, in a neo-Romanesque style, it was dull. And closed.
         
We then continued to the main square with a grand town hall and a church which had once been a mosque, but was now a Catholic church.
         
We passed a gate covered with locks.
Our guide told us that it was a tradition for students who were leaving for a university in another town would leave a padlock on a gate to show that their hearts were locked to Pecs forever and that they would return. Charming!
         
   
Bruce and I then slipped off to explore by ourselves. We visited the catacombs under the cathedral. They are apparently extensive, but only a tiny fraction are open to view. Nevertheless, the 1st century paintings are remarkably fresh and fascinating. We then happily mooched around the pedestrian streets in the warm sunshine until it was time to get on the coach back to the ship.
   
         
Before dinner, we sat on the sun deck sipping G&T’s. Later that evening, there was a problem leaving customs and we were all made to file past the customs officers as they checked our passports. (The story goes that the customs officers wanted the ship to leave by early evening because there was a big speedboat show with fireworks planned along the river and they wanted to get off work early. Our captain refused because we are all off on the Pecs excursion, which meant the customs officers had to work late...and so they decided to delay us too by making every person file past them. It felt a bit like Checkpoint Charlie before the Berlin wall came down!) That night André the chef prepared us a special Hungarian meal including Parasztsaláta (salad of pork loin and asparagus), Rablóhós Nyáütve (mixed grill) and Grundel Palacsinta (pancakes with raisins and nuts). Delicious! We shared a table with Bob and Melaine. We talked politics until they threw us out of the dining room.
 
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble