Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     

Jaipur

 
 
 
12th November 2009
According to our itinerary, we were due to arrive in Jaipur at 3.45 a.m. We can confirm that this was indeed the time that we arrived, because neither of us had slept very much. The train had shaken us, rattled us and rolled us so much that at best we had managed to doze. At one point during the night, another train passed us, hooter blaring. It is inconceivable that anybody slept through that! From 3.45 until 6.15 however, we fell into a coma and were still fast asleep when we got our wake up call from Sid.
 
Breakfast was served by Sid and Prabhu at a small shared table in the lounge at the end of the carriage. We got to know our fellow travelling companions a little better over the meal. There was an American called Bruce, Australians Sonya and Lauren and an Indian couple from London, Mr and Mrs Siddiqui.
Just before 8 o'clock, we got off the train and made our way along the platform, where we were welcomed by people from the city of Jaipur with their colourfully adorned elephants. There were more flower garlands and another red dot on the forehead. Then we boarded one of the three waiting coaches for our tour of the city.
Jaipur is one of the best planned cities in the world of its time, so the guide tells us. It is the capital city of Rajasthan and is popularly known as the Pink City, although it has spread beyond the old city walls. The Pink City itself is surrounded by pink (well pinky-brown) walls and the buildings are painted the same colour. The city blocks and frontages give the place a co-ordinated look.
We stopped to take photos of the frontage of Hawa Mahal (or the Palace of Winds).
It is five storeys high and highly decorative, with semi-octagonal and delicate honey-combed sandstone windows.
Crossing the busy road was an adventure in itself, but we lost no-one!
 
A milk market at the side of the road, where farmers bring their milk and would be buyers dip their arms into the churns to check the consistency and quality of the milk, before deciding whether or not to buy and what price to offer... nice!
We then drove up to the Amber Fort, built high in the hills above Jaipur. It is surrounded by a long wall.
We ascended the long steep sloping path from the road to the fort on elephant back. The tour price included the price of the ride, but it was suggested to us at the start of the ride that we might like to offer the elephant man a tip of 50 rupees per couple at the end of the ride. When we arrived at the top, we offered the recommended tip, but were firmly advised by him that the "tip" would be R50 each!
This video gives some idea about how uncomfortable the ride was!
 
 

Our elephant was a frisky young thing
and kept overtaking others.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
At the end of our tour to the Amber Fort, we were taken back down to our coach in a convoy of jeeps. Hawkers were everywhere!
Heading back into the city, we paused briefly to see this palace in the lake
 
Next stop, the block printing demonstration at the local craft and carpet shop
Geoff attempted to avoid the hard sell in the shop, by sitting with one of the craftsman and taking an interest in what he was doing... until he too demanded a fee for the privilege!
Marjaana made the mistake of showing a little interest in one of the carpets, but then changed her mind.
It took some persuading to convince the vendor that she really, really wasn't interested!
 
Lunch stop at a five star hotel
 
After lunch, it started to rain, but the tour continued regardless.
Our guide told us that it never normally rains at this time of year!
 
 
 
 
 
We visited the Jantar Mantar, built in 1728 and having a collection of architectural astronomical instruments.
The Jai Prakash Yantra (one of a pair) at Jantar Mantar, acted as a reflection of the sky above.
The Mubarak Mahal palace
 
 
The City Palace
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A late afternoon treat. More shopping,
this time at a jewellery shop.

We returned to the station to prepare for dinner, passing this rather elegant building on the way. Unfortunately, the train "wasn't there", because this wasn't the same station that we had disembarked from and it had not yet arrived. We couldn't verify this ourselves because we were not allowed off the coach. After waiting for around fifteen minutes, it was announced that we would be returning to the City Palace for an earlier than planned dinner.

We were given a special welcome and then escorted to our tables for a buffet-style dinner.
Unfortunately, the unseasonal rain and accompanying icy wind, which whistled through the open sided eating area,
made it difficult to relax and enjoy our meal, but we were nevertheless treated to some very graceful dancing and good music.

 
 
 
After supper, we were taken back to the train, which had by then "arrived" at the station. We did find it interesting to see that it was located alongside a short platform and that most of the length of the train didn't actually fit on the platform. In fact, there was a low-rise wall alongside all of the end carriages and it was clear that a part of the wall, directly in front of our carriage door, had recently been hammered away (rubble still piled on one side) to allow us to get on! We suspect that this was the real reason why the train had apparently not "arrived" earlier. The train was probably there all along, but nobody knew what to do about the wall!
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble