Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     

Day 10: Shanghai

 
 
 

Tuesday, 21st September 1999

Shanghai - Suzhou: 55 miles

   
 
A late wake-up call (7.30) and departure at 9.00 for the Lu Gardens.
The gardens are close to "China Town", a restored bit of the old city almost exclusively for tourists.
The gardens were lovely, but a bit too full of other tourists for our liking!
 
 
 
 
The surrounding area, including the zig-zag bridge looked too contrived. Chris & Sue had their camera stolen near the bridge after putting it down for only a minute while paying for something in a shop.

A man approached us and invited us to visit the antiques market. We politely refused, but later found the market ourselves quite by accident. The articles for sale were fascinating and we are quite taken with a beautiful, life-like banana made out of ivory. (not very PC!) We may well have bought a few things, given some time on our own to decide, but unfortunately the man from the zig-zag bridge arrived, recognized us, assumed that we had plenty of money to spend and wouln't leave us alone. We left via the nearest exit, somewhat disappointed.
This hard-sell approach was becoming a feature of most of our attempts at shopping and we wished somebody would tell these traders that they could probably do much better by being less assertive.
 
The obligatory factory visit followed; this time a jade carving factory, where workers were not wearing any masks and there was a fine dust everywhere! Lunch was held in the same complex - a Mongolian barbecue. At this point, a few people had stomach upsets. Much concern was being expressed by most people about everyone else's bowel movements.
 
Some free time available before the boat ride, so we made an unscheduled visit to an old colonial house in the old French concession where arts & crafts students now study. We watched, fascinated, as a lady demonstrated the making of a doll out of dough - applied to a stick and decorated with facial features and head scarf. A man then gave us another demonstration, this time of paper cutting. He created a rabbit, a positive and a negative template in minutes and the standard of workmanship was excellent. A "quick" shop followed. On leaving, we saw a group of people apparently cutting the grass by hand! We then heard that Simon's tummy had got better, however Chris had become unwell.
 
We drove to the Bund for our afternoon boat ride along the river. We noticed that most of the tree trunks in Shanghai were wrapped in rope. We were told that this was to protect them from insects.
 
 
We arrived at the boat just in time for the 3.15 departure. Zhou was not amused when we ignored her instruction to sit downstairs and all went upstairs, where we all found seats, despite being told that it was "full". The views from the river were quite stunning and looked quite different from last night when we saw them all lit up. After cruising down the river as far as the huge new bridge, we turned and went back upstream to the point where we had embarked.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

We then drove to the railway station, where Lizzie and Zhou lead us to the "soft seat" waiting room. We had about half an hour to wait for our train. 


Sue found the massage chairs, which she made use of, to our general amusement. (2 yuan gave about 10 minutes of chair quivering which Sue rated as rather disappointing).
 
 
Our double decker train left at 5.30 for Suzhou and we bade goodbye to a rather sour-faced Zhou. We learned later that she was furious for only getting a tip for one day. She thought she should have got two days' worth (and she is probably right). Tipping on this holiday is all done according to Kuoni standards. We each gave Lizzie 25 pounds at the start of the holiday, which was meant to cover all tips to guides, porters, bribes etc.

Left: Geoff and Ros had become firm friends by this stage of the trip! (A shared love of shopping perhaps?)
 
After an hour on the train, which was very comfortable, we were met by the local guide, Pan, at Suzhou station. She had a trainee called Cindy with her and we were told to practice our colloquial English on her. We soon found that she could barely cope with standard English, but she is very sweet nonetheless.
 

A twenty minute coach ride took us to the Bamboo Grove Hotel. Our cases hadn't arrived, so we went to the bar for a happy hour G&T. Dinner was at 7.45 in the hotel restaurant.

The live music ws excellent, a trio playing a Chinese zither and flute, but they had to give up because almost nobody was taking any notice of them. The meal was very good, Bruce's bowels are still fine, Geoff's bowels are fine. We must remember to show visible concern for everybody else's tomorrow. Everything is right with the world and we have an early night... (cont'd)

   
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble