|
A visit to Freixo de Numão
in the Côa Valley, then sail from Pocinho to Pinhão
|
|
|
|
Sunday 19th November 2023
|
|
|
We had arrived at the small dock at Pocinho
after dark last evening. Located close to the Côa
River, a tributary of the Douro running north to south,
we were in the Côa Valley where we would be spending
the morning. There were two excursions on offer. One to
a museum containing paleolithic tools, the other to the
village of Freixo de Numão, where we would see
caramelised almonds being prepared and also drink some
(more!) port. It will come as no surprise then that we
chose the latter!
Looking out of our cabin
window, it appeared to be another misty start to the day.
|
|
|
|
The young man in charge
of cooking breakfasts to order was the most cheerful and
charming person. He greeted everybody warmly and seemed
to really enjoy his job. Neither of us eats much at breakfast,
but Katia was a regular customer. |
|
|
|
Setting
off from Pocinho as we drove along the Côa Valley. |
|
|
From the dock (top right),
we drove south along the IP2 (a major road linking the north
to the south of the country), before turning off to the
village of Freixo de Numão. On the way back, we took
a different route, driving north through Vila Nova de Foz
Côa. This road is mostly at a higher level than the
main road and affords excellent views of the countryside. |
|
|
|
It was
still rather misty when we arrived in the village of Freixo
de Numão. |
|
|
Our guide met the coach
in the village. He was a lovely man, who spoke flawless
English. He was passionate about the history of this village,
parts of it dating back 400 years, and in making sure that
we knew every detail about it! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The Pillory
of Freixo de Numão |
|
|
|
|
|
Chapel
of Our Lady of the Conception. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Adjacent to the little
chapel is a family estate, Casa Painova, built in 1652.
We went inside for a tour which was followed by almond and
port tasting. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Almonds are harvested
on the estate and after the tour of the house, we were led
into the courtyard, where this lady gave us a step by step
demonstration of how the almonds are caramelised, assisted
by her grandson, who was tasked with cracking them open. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
We were then invited
to taste the freshly prepared almonds, along with some port.
Of course, there was a shop where we bought several packets
to take home with us. There were also olive products and
port for sale, but we contented ourselves with the almond
purchases. |
|
|
|
|
|
After
a most enjoyable morning in the village, it was time to go back
to the ship via a different route. |
|
|
Looking
down into the valley and to the road we had taken on the way to
the village. |
|
|
|
|
Arriving back at the
ship, it was clear that the possibility of rain had scuppered
chances of the planned barbeque lunch on the top deck. |
|
|
|
Instead,
the barbeque theme had been moved into the main dining room. |
|
|
|
|
During lunch, we left
Pocinho and began sailing towards our next destination,
Pinhão, where we were expected to arrive at around
5:30pm. |
|
|
|
Almost
immediately, we descended through the lock at the Pocinho
Dam. |
|
|
Our route
covered today (from right to left). |
|
|
Once
again, in the context of the whole river. |
|
|
|
|
As we sailed, the highlight
of the afternoon on board was a demonstration of how to
make pastel
de nata (pastéis de nata in Portuguese),
also known as pastel de Belem. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After eating our fill
of pastel de nata (can one ever have enough?) we looked
out and spotted that we were about to go under the rather
low Ferradosa
Railway Bridge. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Not long after that,
we descended through the lock at the Valeira
Dam. |
|
|
|
Late afternoon and Pinhão,
our final destination for today, came into view. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The prime
docking location was already occupied... |
|
|
...so
we docked nearby... |
|
|
...alongside
one of Scenic's sister ships, the Emerald Radiance. |
|
|
Today's treats weren't
over just yet. Our speciality dining experience was booked
in for this evening! |
|
|
|
|
|
We enjoyed all the courses very much and
thought we might be far too full for dessert, but somehow
we managed.
Three traditional Portuguese desserts,
which included almond tart (Port.
tarte de amêndoa), Portuguese custard
(creme brulee) (Port. leite creme) and
egg pudding (Port. Pudim de ovos).
|
|
|
|
Our dining companions
for the evening returned to their cabin to find that our
very own William Bear had been celebrating there with his
newly found friends. All three were slightly worse for wear! |
|
|
|
At the end of what had
been a lovely day, we admired the lights of Pinhão
before going to bed. We were due to be here all day tomorrow
so we would have plenty of time to explore the place. |
|
|
|
|
|